By Robyn James,

Proprietor of The Wine Cellar & Tasting Room

Downtown Southern Pines

HAIL A CABERNET FROM 1997 VINTAGE

Just when I wanted to give up on California Cabernet Sauvignon, along comes the 1997 vintage.

It has been difficult to decide what entity from California wine country was larger, the egos of the winemakers or their prices.  Too many California winemakers have doubled or tripled prices each vintage regardless of quality but “just because they could”.

1997 may change all that. Unlike its European counterparts who may get one fine vintage out of five, it is easier to name the poor vintages in California, there are so few.

On the heels of three  wonderful vintages, it appears that 1997 will set a new standard for greatness. 

Flowering conditions (the little flowers on the vines become clusters of grapes) were ideal in late May and June.  Rain and frost are the enemies of flowering season; they can reduce the number of clusters, resulting in a small crop.  1997 is the largest crop in the history of California with many wineries reporting having increased their tonnage by one-third.

Once you have a successful flowering, the actual growing season for the grapes is the next challenge.  Cabernet Sauvignon is a very thick-skinned grape that requires a very long, warm season to ripen.  Early rains in the fall can cut that season dangerously short, forcing growers to pick too early to avoid rot.  Grapes that are picked too early can be light-bodied, diluted and low in alcohol since the sugar levels in the berries weren’t high enough (sugar turns into alcohol during fermentation).

1997 had such a long growing season, devoid of rain, that many winemakers had to add water to the vats because the wines were so super-concentrated and high in alcohol (this practice does not damage the wine in any way).

The bonus to this abundant crop in perfect conditions is the technical progress winemakers have made in the last decade.  Most of the Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards are planted on hillside vineyards now rather than the valley floors, allowing the vine to stress,

increasing intensity of flavor.

Reports on the 1998 and 1999 crops are slightly bleak. El Nino  wreaked some havoc in 1998 and cool weather in 1999 resulted in a small harvest, less concentrated.

Will prices on the 1997 go down?  Probably not since 1998 and 1999 will be small crops.  What we can hope for is that the abundance of 1997 will at least keep prices from increasing.

California Cabernet Aficionados should adopt this buying strategy: buy up what’s left of the ’94, ’95 and ’96 vintages.  There isn’t much in the way of ’94 left, but keep what you do buy for 5 years and up depending on the quality of the individual winery.  Drink your 95’s and 96’s now, they are approachable and drinking beautifully now.  Buy heavy on the 1997 vintage, they are also drinking well now, but have the power and concentration to age longer than the previous vintages.  Don’t expect much from 1998 and 1999, quality is spotty and buyers will have to pick and choose carefully.              

Although many 1997’s are still resting happily in their barrels or bottles at the wineries, here are some early releases in different price points and appellations that have truly impressed me.

STAG’S LEAP, STAG’S LEAP DISTRICT, NAPA, approx. $40

98% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Merlot, 1% Petite Sirah. 

“A mixture of valley floor fruit and hillside fruit from the Rutherford, Oakville, Atlas Peak and Howell Mountain areas.  Hillside grapes contribute dense structure in which black cherry fruit characteristics are displayed on a backbone of firm, leathery tannins.  Grapes from the valley floor add balancing components of deep fruit concentration that is refined, elegant and silky.  A brambly aroma is laced generously with full ripe berry perfume.  Ripe blackberry flavors echo gently on the palate.”

Michael Silacci, Winemaker

JOSEPH PHELPS, NAPA, approx. $38

87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, all from Napa Valley vineyards. 

With its opaque color, concentrated, jammy aromas of black cherry, herbs, and mocha, the wine reveals similar, satisfying flavors and a long, intricate finish.

“Produced in about 30% new American and French oak barrels, so as not to dominate the sweet back currant fruit.  Low in acidity, with gorgeous ripeness, a dense purple color, and a spicy, full-bodied, concentrated personality, it is one of the finest, most precocious/accessible Cabernet Sauvignons Phelps has recently produced.”

Rated 89 point, Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

BYINGTON, SANTA CRUZ, BATES RANCH VINEYARD, approx. $29

93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 21 months in French oak barrels.

“Ripe and juicy, turning elegant and polished for such an immense wine, with a range of wild berry, black cherry, currant, cedar and tea.  Firm and tannic on the finish.  Best from 2002 through 2010.”

Rated 91 Points, The Wine Spectator

CARMENET DYNAMITE, NORTH COAST, approx. $23

78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot, 16 months in American oak, fruit from 55% Sonoma, 35% Napa, 3% Mendocino

“Given today’s ridiculously overpriced wine market, the Dynamite Cabernet is a terrific bargain.  The dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by an overripe nose of back currants and jammy cassis.  Lush, medium to full-bodied and spicy, with low acidity, this is a mouthfilling, pure textbook Cabernet Sauvignon to drink over the next decade.  Don’t miss it!”

Rated 88 Points, Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

JUSTIN, PASO ROBLES, approx. $19

100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21 months in American/French oak.

“An intensely fruity, big and full-bodied approachable wine, exhibiting a deep, dark ruby color.  Rich and opulent aromas of cassis and cherry are followed by notes of toasted oak, vanilla and strawberries.  Dark fruit aromas translate into ripe black cherry fruit and vanilla notes in the mouth.  The wine is a full-bodied and velvety, but has substantial structure and tannins, giving the wine balance and aging potential.”

Jeff Branco, Winemaker

ARROWOOD DOMAINE GRAND ARCHER, SONOMA, approx. $22

100% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in French/American oak.

"Reveals the sweet black currant fruit that is a prominent characteristic of this vintage.  Dominated by its fruit components, this delicious, soft wine possesses excellent purity, length, and density.”

Rated 87 Points, Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

SONOMA CREEK, SONOMA, approx. $15

"Looking for a value in California Cabernet?  This firm-textured wine has anise, blackberry and coffee notes framed by toasty oak, with supple tannins that give good structure, and the flavors resonate on the finish.”

BEST BUY, Rated 87 Points, The Wine Spectator