Proprietor, The Wine Cellar and Tasting Room

French winemakers, who for centuries have understood that great wine begins in the vineyard, have a philosophy for a classic vintage:  June makes the quantity, August makes the style, and September makes the quality. 

For the first time in ten years, it did not rain – or almost didn’t during September 2000 in Bordeaux. Bordeaux’s average rainfall in September is about 3 inches and during 2000 it came in under 2 inches.  September also experienced some exceptional heat waves (rain being the enemy and heat being the ally), particularly early in the month, which helped to thicken what were already dense grape skins.  This only served to further concentrate the wines.  

Understanding Bordeaux is not as complicated as it may seem. Bordeaux comprises two large subregions: the Left Bank, located south of the Garonne and Gironde rivers, and the Right Bank, located north of the Dordogne and Gironde Rivers (with Entre-Deux-Mers occupying the less prestigious region between the Dordogne and the Garonne). The Left Bank includes regions such as Graves and Médoc (with its prestigious appellations of Margaux, St.-Julien, Pauillac and St.-Estèphe); vineyards here are dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, with varying percentages of Merlot and Cabernet Franc as well as a touch of Petit Verdot. The Right Bank includes St.-Emilion and Pomerol, along with lesser appellations; Merlot and Cabernet Franc predominate, with a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon and sometimes Malbec.

There are about 9,000 Chateaux that bottle and produce wine, however only about 60 of those are “classified”.  In 1855, a classification system was set down to “rank” the best Chateaux with the idea of providing the consumer a guide to the greatest wines.  Only four Chateaux were chosen at that time, Chateau Lafite, Chateaux Margaux, Chateau Haut Brion and Chateau Latour.  Only one change has been made since the original ranking, and that was to add Chateau Mouton. 

Consumers in past years have religiously followed this classification in choosing the wines to stock their cellars.  This strategy will change dramatically with the vintage 2000.  What makes this vintage even more exciting than, say the phenomenal 1982, are the changes in not only winemaking, but also collector purchasing.  Since the 1980’s, there has been a wave of ambitious new winemakers, anxious to rise to the competition from New World wines in California and Australia that have challenged their position.  Bordeaux has invested heavily in the finest high tech wine making equipment and oak barrels.  There is plenty of competition within their own region as well.  A new phenomenon has taken place in Bordeaux with the advent of the “Garagistes”, extremely talented winemakers from unclassified properties that resemble garages rather than opulent, expensive chateaux.  Wine aficionados are clamoring for these exceptional wines regardless of their “rank”.  Bordeaux producers now deal with a much savvier consumer than they did in the 1980’s and have raised their own bar.

Bordeaux is the only wine making region in the world where wines are nearly always sold as “futures”.  Importers come and taste the wines out of barrels, a price is agreed upon and the public is allowed to pay a lower price two years prior to release, the idea being that, once bottled, their purchases will greatly increase in value.  A risk, yes, but one that was a sure thing for the 2000 vintage. Only time will tell, with tastings of this great vintage over the next 20 years, experts seems convinced that not only will these gems drink beautifully young, but they possess the stuffing to age elegantly.  If you had your head in the sand in 2001 when the opportunity to buy futures was available, do not despair (and definitely do not wait any longer); there are small amounts of 2000 to be had.  Here are some that may be out in the marketplace (briefly).

CHATEAU LAGRANGE ST. JULIEN, Approx. $65.00

“An impressive, excellent value.  Beautifully aromatic, with coffee, cedar and blackberries on the nose, it’s full-bodied, with fine tannins and a mineral, blackberry aftertaste.”

RATED 93 POINTS, THE WINE SPECTATOR

CHATEAU LA TOUR CARNET HAUT MEDOC, Approx. $45.00

“A sleeper of the vintage. An opaque purple color is accompanied by a dense, powerful, concentrated wine displaying superb ripeness, purity, and texture. A tannic, full-throttle effort, the likes of which I have never tasted from La Tour-Carnet, it requires 4-5 years of cellaring, and should keep for 16-18 years.”

RATED 88-90 POINTS, ROBERT PARKER, THE WINE ADVOCATE

CHATEAU POTENSAC HAUT MEDOC, Approx. $35.00

“Racy. Ripe plum, with plenty of tobacco. Medium- to full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a flavorful finish.”

RATED 89-91 POINTS, THE WINE SPECTATOR

CHATEAU EPICUREA COTES DE BOURG, Approx., $26.00

“A seriously-stuffed, rich, concentrated, textured blend made from 90% Merlot and 10% Malbec (average age of the vines is 40 years), this 900-case cuvee exhibits copious amounts of toasty new oak, and dense, chewy, chocolatey black cherry and berry flavors. A sleeper of the vintage, it is rich, deep, and surprisingly long with sweet tannin and low acidity. It should be drunk over the next 7-8 years.”

RATED 88-89 POINTS, ROBERT PARKER, THE WINE ADVOCATE

CHATEAU DE FRANCES LES CERISIERS , COTES DE FRANCS, Approx., $32.00

“This excellent wine, the result of a partnership between the Bouard and Hebrard families, is the finest example I have tasted since they began producing it over a decade ago. The 2000 boasts explosive sweet, black cherry fruit, smoke, and new oak aromas. Medium-bodied, intense, supple, and stunning, it should drink well for 6-7 years.”

RATED 88-89 POINTS, ROBERT PARKER, THE WINE ADVOCATE

CHATEAU CARRUADES DE LAFITE ROTHSCHILD, PAULLIAC, Approx., $78.00

“Sometimes you have to wonder if the second wine of Lafite is too good in quality.  Perhaps they should have used some of this in the grand vin –but then again, I gave Lafite 100 points in this vintage.  So it was probably a good idea making such a severe selection.  Regardless, this is an exciting young wine.  Wonderfully ripe and decadent, with tobacco, meat and ripe berry aromas and hints of currants.  It’s full-bodied and very velvety, with unctuous fruit flavors and a long and exotic aftertaste.  Best after 2010.”

RATED 93 POINTS, THE WINE SPECTATOR