Proprietor, The Wine Cellar & Tasting Room

Having just returned from FENAVIN, the International Spanish Wine Fair in Spain, I was overwhelmed by the quality, and quantity of wine pouring out of this country. 

Even with the weak dollar, the wines of Spain are incredible bargains.  It was delightful to pop into the most modest, tiny neighborhood pub and find dozens of delicious, estate bottled wines available by the glass for $1 to $2.  The enthusiasm and warmth of Spanish winemakers was contagious, their eagerness to share their unique products with Americans was flattering. 

Spaniards talking about making wine use the verb elaborar, to elaborate, not fabrifcar, to produce or manufacture.  To elaborate something, Spain’s winemakers say, implies consciousness, time and the labor of creation and nurturance.  It is different from mere production.  More than at any time in recent history, Spanish wines truly are being elaborated.  According to European Economic Community statistics, Spain has more land planted with grapes than any other nation in the world – some 2.9 million acres.  It does not, however, produce the most wine.  Spain ranks third in production, after Italy and France, due to the large number of old, low-yielding vines planted on extremely dry, infertile land.  That fact alone is a tribute to the quality of wine coming out of this country, as the finest wines are from the older vines.

Although there are hundreds of grape varieties in Spain, as in any country, a focus on Tempranillo, their flagship grape, is a great start.

This grape is to Spain what Cabernet is to Bordeaux, Sangiovese to Tuscany.

Tempranillo if the finest indigenous red wine grape of Spain and travels under a number of names.  In Penedes it is called Ull de Llebre and in the Ribera del Duero, Tinto.  It provides rich, well-structured wines with good acidity and plenty of tannin and color.  The bouquet often exhibits an intense black raspberry character.  It makes an ideal blending mate with Garnacha (Grenache) but is complex enough to stand on its own. 

The most pedigreed grape of Spain, it is especially associated with the historic wine-growing region of Rioja.  There, it possesses a dark, lush fruit that ages well. 

Historically, winemakers in Rioja would age their wines for 7-8 years before release, longer than any other European area.  These days, younger, more modern winemakers are keeping up with the current taste for fresher, more pronounced fruit and releasing wines younger.

Rioja, by Spanish law is the only Demoninacion de Origen Calificada, or Qualified Denomination of Origin.  Tempranillo here has a dictated hierarchy of Crianza, Reservas and Gran Reservas based on vineyard quality and length of aging.  The word Crianza on a label tells you that this wine has been aged for at least two years, one of which must be in oak barrels.  Reservas indicates that the wine was made from superior grapes and was aged for at least three years, one of which must be in oak.  Gran Reservas, made only in exceptional years, come from the very best sites.  They must be aged for at least five years, two of which must be in oak barrels and the remaining three of which must be in bottles. 

While Tempranillo in Rioja can be elegant and subtle, in Ribera Del Duero, it becomes thicker textured and bolder.  The brutally hot, harsh climate (compared with cooler Rioja) contributes to the concentration of Tempranillo character.  It makes delicious wines full of licorice, leather, mocha, plum and dark berry aromas and flavors.  At their best, they are full, robust, and mouthfilling, with loads of amazingly soft, supple tannin. 

Since each Bodegas has it’s own style, it’s no more realistic to give a generic description of Tempranillo, than say, Cabernet in California. 

Instead, succumb to the temptation of Tempranillo and set out to grab a bottle or three!

Here are some favorites:   

MUGA RIOJA RESERVA ESPECIAL, SPAIN, 1996, Approx. $26

“A blend of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, and 10% Graciano, this offering spends 22 months in large American oak casks, followed by 16 months in French casks, prior to being bottled without filtration.  An amazing effort, it somehow benefits from such a long wood aging regime.  The opaque dense purple color is accompanied by scents of black fruits, minerals, scorched earth, cedar, tobacco, and spice box.  Full-bodied, with great concentration, as well as a tightly knit personality, this powerful, muscular wine demands 3-5 years of cellaring.”

RATED 92 POINTS, ROBERT PARKER, THE WINE ADVOCATE

SIERRA CANTABRIA RIOJA, SPAIN, 1998, Approx. $13

“The serious 1998 Crianza reveals a deep ruby color as well as aromas of black cherries, earth, and damp forest with a suggestion of oak. While it displays length and richness, it is a medium-weight, light to moderately intense Rioja to consume over the next 3-4 years.”

RATED 86 POINTS, ROBERT PARKER, THE WINE ADVOCATE

DOMINICO DE EGUREN CODICE TINTO, SPAIN,  2001, Approx. $10

“Importer Jorge Ordonez continues to be one of the world’s best importers for sourcing well-made, surprisingly interesting  wines that sell for a song.  The Codice (a 100% Tempranillo cuvee from high altitude vineyards) is aged six months in 1-3 year old American oak barrels.  A denser example, it reveals delicious black cherry fruit intermixed with sandalwood, pepper, dried herb, and spice characteristics.  With fine density, a sweet, plush midpalate, and a long, elegant, concentrated finish, it will drink well for 1-3 years.  Ten thousand cases of this beauty made it into the United State, an Outrageous Value.”

RATED 88 POINTS, ROBERT PARKER, THE WINE ADVOCATE

BODEGAS MARQUES DE MURRIETA RIOJA NEONATO, 2000, Approx. $10

“Ripe, assertive stye.  Rich plum, chocolate and licorice flavors are supported by muscular tannins in this concentrated red.  A bit clumsy, but exuberant.  Great price.  Drink now through 2010.”

BEST VALUE, RATED 87 POINTS, THE WINE SPECTATOR

ALBET NOYA TEMPRANILLO, SPAIN, 2001, Approx $9

“This offering represents an outstanding value.  I enjoyed the 2001 Tempranillo, a medium dark ruby-colored wine with sweet berry fruit, gorgeous strawberry and cherry aromas, excellent purity, and a soft, round, medium-bodied, nicely textured finish.  It should drink well for 1-2 years. And can be served chilled.”

RATED 88 POINTS, ROBERT PARKER’S, THE WINE ADVOCATE’S GREAT BARGAINS