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CALIFORNIA’S RHONE RANGERS
By Robyn James
Proprietor, The Wine Cellar and Tasting Room
241 A N.E. Broad St.
Southern Pines
thewinecellarandtastingroom.com
In the land where Cabernet is king, a group of maverick winemakers are making their mark with the art of blending obscure French Rhone varietal grapes. Once considered “junk” grapes in California that were watery and blended into jug wines, they are now being seriously cultivated and accepted into the wine market for the jewels they are. Consumers are discovering and snatching up these blended bargains that have great complexity in their layers of flavors.
The Southern Rhone region of France allows 22 different grape varieties to be grown there, none of which are our mainstream Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir or Chardonnay.
Here’s a primer for the most popular new kids on the block in California:
White Grapes
Viognier-
Viognier is one of the most difficult grapes to grow. It makes a floral and spicy white wine, medium to full-bodied and very fruity, with apricot and peach aromas. In the Northern Rhone, it is the basis of the wines of Condrieu and Chateau-Grillet
Roussanne-
A white wine grape of the northern Rhône Valley, mainly for blending with the white wine grape Marsanne.
Marsanne-
A full-bodied, moderately intense wine with spice, pear and citrus notes. Popular in the Rhône & Australia (especially Victoria) has some of the world's oldest vineyards. California's "Rhône-Rangers" have had considerable success with this variety.
Red Grapes
Shiraz/Syrah
The basis for the great reds of the Northern Rhone. Black cherry, spice, pepper, tar & leather with smooth tannins & supple texture make this wine a growing favorite. With early drinking appeal it also has the ability to age well to form more complex wines.
Grenache
Used mainly for blending and the making of Rose and Blush Wines in California, while in France it is blended to make Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Originally from Spain is the second most widely grown grape in the world. It produces a fruity, spicy, medium-bodied wine
Mourvedre-
A pleasing wine, of medium-weight, with spicy cherry and berry flavors and moderate tannins. Often used in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Cinsault-
Generally used in blends, Cinsault tends to be low in tannin, and often added to blends to add spice.
Carignan-
Known as Carignane in California, and Cirnano in Italy. Once a major blending grape for jug wines, Carignan's popularity has diminished though it still appears in some blends. Old vineyards are sought after for the intensity of their grapes
Modestly referred to as “Field Blends” by their winemakers, these tasty wines are usually ready to drink right away and do not require a second mortgage on your home to purchase. The whites are generally floral, spicy and lush, with very little or no oak influence. The reds are also spicy, jammy and peppery, also devoid of any overoaking or overly tannic (bitter).
One of the first founding fathers of this concept is a favorite winemaker of mine, Fred Cline, owner of Cline Cellars. More than twenty years ago, Fred bucked the main varietal tradition by resurrecting his grandfather’s Rhone grape vineyards in Contra Costa California. He never strayed from his love of Rhone style wines and his dedication has finally paid off as consumers snatch up his food friendly, interesting, esoteric wines.
He makes over 25 different wines and nary a Cabernet or Chardonnay in the bunch.
Randall Graham, owner of Bonny Doon Winery, another founding Rhone Ranger states:
• Wine should be as much fun as government regulations allow.
• Great wine starts in the vineyard.
• We should champion the strange, esoteric, ugly-duckling grape varieties of the world.
Graham, considered somewhat (okay, a lot) eccentric and crazy, has a label featuring a flying cigar hovering in UFO fashion over a vineyard. This label, Le Cigare Volant is in tribute to the Rhone winemakers, who many years ago, passed a law forbidding UFO’s from landing in their vineyards. So far, the law has been well honored.
Here are a few of my favorite California Rhone ranger wines.
JEWEL VIOGNIER, CALIFORNIA, Approx., $10
“Made in the exotic style, with a mélange of tropical fruit,
wildflower and spice flavors that are rich in ripe, fruity
sweetness, although the wine itself is dry. What it lacks
in delicacy it makes up for in sheer power.”
RATED BEST BUY, 88 POINTS,
THE WINE ENTHUSIAST
CLINE RED TRUCK WHITE, CALIFORNIA, Approx., $12
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier,
Marsanne and Rousanne.
No oak aging or malolactic fermentation contributed to
the bright, fresh character of red truck white.
This wine is packed with flavors of melon, apricot and herbs.
MUTT LYNCH PORTRAIT OF A
MUTT ZINFANDEL/CARIGNANE, 2002, Approx., $17
“"Bright and spicy on the nose, with hints of chocolate
and raspberries. Pretty fruit continues along the palate,
showing cherries, cocoa, coffee, cinnamon and toast.
Fresh and lively to the end.”
RATED 88 POINTS, THE
WINE ENTHUSIAST
CLINE RED TRUCK RED, CALIFORNIA, Approx., $10
“Ripe and intense, with a refreshing burst of pomegranate,
mineral, cherry and pine tones, with firm tannins and a lively
structure keeping it lively. Debut vintage of this blend.
Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,
Alicante Bouschet and Pinot Noir.”
RATED BEST VALUE, 88 POINTS,
THE WINE SPECTATOR
NOVELLA SYNERGY, PASO ROBLES, Approx., $14
“Everything comes together in this handsome Zinfandel,
Sangiovese and Petite Sirah blend. A bouquet of dark
raspberry and deep floral notes opens to a full palate of
similar flavors with leather and black pepper accents.
This has a lively tang on the tongue and a big finish,
with mouth-coating but even tannins.
CLINE CASHMERE, CALIFORNIA, Approx., $16
A blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah, and Zinfandel.
Intense flavors and a deep, rich color. Concentrated
Blueberry flavors and spice with notes of cracked
Black pepper, plums and tobacco. Elegant and seamless.
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